Cooper's Creek Read online

  “High adventure…extraordinary”

  —WASHINGTON STAR

  “The story of one of the world’s strangest adventures in the world’s strangest land, the story of the expedition that preceded the opening of the interior of Australia … drama, tragedy, emotion”

  —BOSTON GLOBE

  “A fascinatied well-told tale of heroism and adventure, told by a master of the craft

  —HARPER’S

  “A monument to a few tough men who crossed the continent because no one had done it before … chilling … a tale of men against the elements”

  —ST. LOUIS POST-DISPATCH

  “Few writers can so skillfully cast a spell over the reader … only when the whole vivid picture unfolds does one realize with what mastery it has been produced … moves as swiftly as a well-plotted suspense novel”

  —CHICAGO NEWS

  About the author:

  ALAN MOOREHEAD,

  an Australian himself, is the author of

  Gallipoli, The Russian Revolution

  and three books about Africa

  —No Room in the Ark, The White

  Nile and The Blue Nile. He was

  a foreign correspondent for

  the London Daily Express during

  World War II and has also written

  several books about the war.

  Published by

  DELL PUBLISHING CO., INC.

  750 Third Avenue

  New York, N.Y. 10017

  Copyright © 1963 by Alan Moorehead

  Dell ® TM 681510, Dell Publishing Co., Inc.

  Reprinted by arrangement with

  Harper and Row, New York, N.Y.

  First Dell printing—January, 1965

  Printed in U.S.A.

  Contents

  1– THE GHASTLY BLANK

  2– STURT

  3– THE EXPEDITION ASSEMBLES

  4– THE JOURNEY TO MENINDIE.

  5– MENINDIE TO COOPER’S CREEK

  6– TO THE GULF

  7– THE REARGUARD

  8– THE RETURN FROM THE GULF

  9– BACK TO MENINDIE

  10– TOWARDS MOUNT HOPELESS

  11– THE RESCUE PARTIES SET OUT

  12– HOWITT’S MARCH

  13– BACK TO MELBOURNE

  14– THE ROYAL COMMISSION

  15– THE PUBLIC PENANCE

  NOTE

  INDEX

  MAPS

  (drawn by Miss Joan Emerson)

  THE EXPLORERS’ ROUTES

  CENTRAL AUSTRALIA

  1

  THE GHASTLY BLANK

  HERE PERHAPS, MORE THAN ANYWHERE, HUMANITY HAD had a chance to make a fresh start. The land was absolutely untouched and unknown, and except for the blacks, the most retarded people on earth, there was no sign of any previous civilization whatever: not a scrap of pottery, not a Chinese coin, not even the vestige of a Portuguese fort. Nothing in this strange country seemed to bear the slightest resemblance to the outside world: it was so primitive, so lacking in greenness, so silent, so old. It was not a measurable man-made antiquity, but an appearance of exhaustion and weariness in the land itself. The very leaves of the trees hung down dejectedly, and they were not so much evergreen as ever-grey, never entirely renewing themselves in the spring, never altogether falling in winter. It was the bark that fell; it dried up and cracked on the tree trunks and then peeled off like the discarded skin of a snake.

  Everything was the wrong way about. Midwinter fell in July, and in January summer was at its height; in the bush there were giant birds that never flew, and queer, antediluvian animals that hopped instead of walked or sat munching mutely in the trees. Even the constellations in the sky were upside down and seemed to belong to another system of the sun. As for the naked aborigines, they were caught in a timeless apathy in which nothing ever changed or progressed; they built no villages, they planted no crops, and except for a few flea-bitten dogs possessed no domestic animals of any kind. They hunted, they slept, just occasionally they decked themselves out for a tribal ceremony, but all the rest was a listless dreaming.

  A kind of trance was in the air, a sense of awakening infinitely delayed. In the midsummer heat the land scarcely breathed, but the alien white man, walking through the grey and silent trees, would have the feeling that someone or something was waiting and listening. The smaller birds did not fly away as they did in Europe. The kookaburra approached, uttered its raucous guffaw, then cocked its head, waiting for a response. The kangaroo stood poised and watching. The earth itself had this same air of expectancy, as though it were willing the rain to fall, as though it were waiting for fertilization so that it could come to life again.

  And in fact an awakening did occur in the south-eastern corner of the continent when the first white settlers arrived in 1788. Somehow European crops were made to grow in land that had never been tilled before, and imported cattle, horses and sheep managed to survive in a country where the farmer had no precedents to guide him. Every man was a Robinson Crusoe. A flood could and did wipe out a year’s labour in a single day, and when a drought began there was no knowing when it would ever end. Everything was new and had to be begun from the beginning.

  But it was a healthy country. Along the coast at least there was a sparkle in the air, a sense of vigour, of light and space, that the colonists had never known in Europe. On the whole it was a mild climate by the sea—they had about as much rain as England and the sun had no more than a Mediterranean warmth—and by 1860 places like Sydney, Melbourne and Adelaide were flourishing settlements.

  Melbourne, the capital of Victoria, was by some way the most important of these places; and this had happened with bewildering suddenness. Barely ten years earlier Victoria had been a remote pastoral backwater, an appendage of the older settlement of New South Wales, a place only known vaguely as the Port Phillip district. Most of the little colony’s affairs were managed from Sydney. No made roads or railways led off to the other Australian colonies, no telegraph existed, and twelve thousand miles of empty ocean divided the settlers from Europe. Apart from Melbourne and Geelong there was not another town worth the name, and it is doubtful if the population of the whole region, which was about the size of England, exceeded 80,000.

  But then in 1850 Queen Victoria had agreed that a new colony should be created south of the Murray River and that it should bear her name; and in the following year gold was found near Ballarat. Gold could create a mass frenzy anywhere—it had just done so in California—but in this little frontier community where the struggle for existence had been so hard people lost their wits. Bank clerks and civil servants left their jobs overnight to go off to the diggings, and not even the offer of double wages could hold them back. Ships putting into Port Melbourne were abandoned by their crews, and in the town itself women were left to carry on the shops and businesses. ‘Cottages,’ La Trobe, the Lieutenant-Governor, wrote, ‘are deserted, houses to let, business is at a standstill, and even schools are closed. In some suburbs not a man is left …’ Prices shot up to impossible heights; an immigrant was obliged to pay £2 or more to get his luggage ashore, and as much again for a corner of a hotel room to sleep in.

  And the gold was actually there, at first near Ballarat, then in Castlemaine and Bendigo and in a dozen other new ‘strikes’ along the inland rivers. Prospectors with nothing but a pick and shovel, a bag of flour and a little tea, spread out through the north-east, penetrating into hills and valleys that had never been explored, and it was enough for the word to go out that someone had ‘struck it lucky on the Ovens River’ for a new rush to begin. The gold, quite often, was lying there on the surface of the ground waiting to be picked up; they found nuggets in the roots of trees, in upturned grass, in the sands of shallow river
s. The Welcome Stranger nugget, weighing 2,284 ounces and worth £9,534, was covered by only two inches of soil.

  By 1853 a thousand ships were arriving in Melbourne every year, and money had begun to lose all value in a welter of speculation. Land in the city went for £200 a foot—five times the cost of land in London—and men made money only to spend it again as quickly as possible. After months of grinding work at the diggings it was a wonderful thing for a man to light his cigar with a £5 note, to play skittles with bottles of French wine, or even in some cases to shoe his horse with golden horseshoes.

  There had always been a shortage of women in Australia; at one stage of the early convict days a few hundred workhouse girls known as ‘Green Linnets’1 had been brought out from England to provide wives for the settlers. Now prostitutes swarmed in the backstreet hovels of Melbourne, and it was the delight of the newly rich miner to cock a snook at the respectable bourgeoisie by going through a mockmarriage with one of the girls, dressing her up in the best brocades, and parading her in a carriage along Collins Street.

  1 So-called after a man named Green who shipped them out.

  At first there had been prohibition on the goldfields, but now it was abandoned as a farce; illicit grog shops flourished everywhere, and when the miner had money he drank himself into a stupor. Then too, with the difficulty of recruiting police and so many government departments understaffed, the outburst of crime became a sinister and a menacing thing, and it was not merely the derring-do escapades of the bushrangers waylaying the gold coaches on their way down to the coast: it was the thieving, knifing and murder in the Melbourne streets.

  To the old guard of settlers—the wool-growing squatters who had first taken up the land—all this seemed very like the mob taking over, a return in a small but depressing way to the lawless and egalitarian ideas of the French Revolution. It was, Dean Macartney wrote, ‘a time when the bonds of society were loosened, when most people had gone mad, and the rest paralysed by fear.’

  A Mr. D. Puseley, an itinerant author of strong respectability, speaks with horror of the Melbourne he found when he first arrived, and his experiences seem to be fairly typical. The city was, he says, ‘a modern Babel—a little hell on earth —a city of rioters, gamblers and drunkards … In 1852–53 speculation, crime, excitement and disorder in Victoria had probably attained their greatest height; the yield in gold and the price of land had touched their highest points up to that period; robbers and murderers commanded extensive trades which they prosecuted with impunity, and mostly without detection; land jobbers, many of whom were magistrates and the millionaires of the colony, made their thousands per diem, and were too much engaged on their profitable traffic to attend to the arrest or punishment of lawbreakers; merchants and shopkeepers had too many additions to make on the the profit side of their ledgers either to think of, or to care about anything else; swindlers and gamblers were reaping an abundant harvest …’

  It is, of course, all too easy to make much of these lurid episodes, and to forget that beneath the excitement a more normal natural life was gradually growing up in the colony; farms were being quietly cultivated, houses were being built and tradesmen who were strong enough to resist the gold fever were getting on with their business. In any case the lawlessness of the gold rush soon subsided, and the boom burst. It was not that the gold failed: it was simply that nearly all the surface alluvial was exhausted and now gold had to be mined by machinery and in deep shafts. The individual prospector was replaced by the mining company employing hundreds or even thousands of workers at a fixed wage. Wool, and later wheat, were important industries, and many of the new immigrants were craftsmen with families who found they could make a living without going as far as the goldfields. All this tended to stabilize prices.

  By the late fifties a railway to Ballarat was being constructed, and the more settled parts of the colony were being connected by a system of horse-drawn coaches organized by a young American called Cobb. Cobb’s coaches were soon to become familiar all over Australia, and his twentytwo-horse Leviathan on the goldfields run was a mammoth contraption capable of carrying nearly 100 passengers. Soon, too, Melbourne was linked to both Adelaide and Sydney by telegraph, and fast clippers were making the voyage round the Cape from England in a little over two months; the new canal at Suez would soon make the journey even shorter. Now rapidly the old isolation was melting away.

  By 1860 Melbourne had a settled air. The city had been sensibly laid out on the banks of the Yarra River, with wide, straight streets lit by gaslight, and already there was a university, a public library, a Parliament House, a chain of trading banks, and public gardens filled with imported trees. At the Royal Theatre, which seated 4,000, one paid twelve guineas for a box when Catherine Hayes, the reigning prima donna, was singing, and there were half a dozen other theatres presenting Shakespeare, Sheridan and vaudeville—a great change from the days when the theatre was merely an annexe to the pub and no respectable woman could go there. The Cremorne Gardens (a model of those in London) provided another theatre, waxworks, a dancehall, a menagerie and such entertainments as brass bands, balloon ascents and displays of fireworks. Horse-racing had a mass following, and the Melbourne Cup was about to be run for the first time. When an important game of cricket was being played at the Melbourne Cricket Ground Parliament suspended its sittings until the evening.

  There was a craze for dancing the quadrille, the polka and the waltz, and thousands of guests attended the balls in the newly-built Exhibition Building. These were the well-to-do people who came in their own carriages, the women in crinolines, the men wearing top-hats and muttonchop whiskers. By day, we are told—and it is confirmed by many charming prints and water-colours—the central streets were filled with a constant passage of private gigs, carriages and horse-drawn omnibuses, and there was a railway to St. Kilda where one could put up at a good hotel and visit the sea-bathing establishments (one for men and another for women). In the fashionable suburbs many large square Victorian mansions and pleasant villas had been built with their gardens running down to boathouses and gazebos on the river.

  Life for the rich then was a good deal more expansive than it is now. A normal household would expect to have its three Irish maids, a cook, a coachman and a gardener; silver, furniture and hangings were all brought from abroad (to add to the kangaroo mats on the floor and the ornamental fans made of lyre-bird tails), and Australian refinements were added to the lavish Victorian cuisine: black swan roasted and served with a port-wine sauce was a favourite dish. Picnics known as ‘bushing parties’ were very popular, and on a hot summer afternoon people would set off in boats up the Yarra to see the wallabies and the birds, to drink champagne and then sing glees as they drifted downstream in the evening.

  The squatters in the bush were hardly less well off. Their homesteads were comfortable places with wide verandas, mosquito nets in the bedrooms and even bathrooms with hot water. There was an abundance of food for all comers, and a man’s normal breakfast was a pound of steak, perhaps with an egg on top. When Anthony Trollope came out to visit his sheep-farming son in the seventies he fixed the social status of the squatters thus:

  ‘A hundred thousand sheep and upwards require a professional man-cook and a butler to look after them; forty thousand sheep cannot be shorn without a piano; twenty thousand is the lowest number that renders napkins at dinner imperative. Ten thousand require absolute plenty, plenty in meat, tea in plenty, brandy and water, colonial dishes in plenty, but do not expect champagne, sherry or made dishes …’

  Among the rich and the middle classes who were now arriving in increasing numbers the standard of literacy was very high, probably higher than it was in England. Something like one-third of Britain’s book exports were sent to Australia, and every incoming mail brought large quantities of English newspapers and periodicals. By now too the colony had its own publications: the Age, the Argus, the Herald and the Melbourne Punch.

  It was true that the more squalid aspects
of life were painfully apparent. There were at least 100 brothels and 500 prostitutes in Melbourne, and drunkenness was as prevalent as the common cold. Beggars had begun to appear on the streets, and most working men were still a long way off the achievement of the eight-hour day. For a man to lose his job was a disastrous thing. But this was not poverty as it was known in Britain, where there were still a million paupers. Food, especially meat, was cheap, and in this mild climate there was no great struggle to keep warm through the winter months. Moreover, the change from poverty to security or even wealth could be very rapid, and the immigrant had much better prospects than he could ever have hoped for at home. Even the Chinese immigrants drifting down from the goldfields found that they could make a living by cultivating vegetable gardens, by opening laundries and by catching and salting fish on St. Kilda beach.

  And so by 1860 the Victorians felt that they had good reason to be confident. In ten years they had risen from being the newest and smallest colony on the mainland to a wealth and importance that far eclipsed all the others. In wool they supplied one-sixth of Britain’s imports, and in gold one-third of the world’s production; indeed, it had been so great a flood of gold that all the world’s economy was affected, and Marx and Engels, who had predicted a disastrous slump in Europe, found their programme seriously delayed.

  The state’s population had increased to half a million—about half the white population of the whole continent—and Melbourne with its 140,000 inhabitants was a much more substantial place than the older settlement of Sydney. Moreover, in these tumultuous ten years a new kind of man had emerged. Apart from the minorities—34,000 Chinese, 10,000 Germans and 2,500 Americans—the Victorians were overwhelmingly of English, Irish and Scottish extraction, and although they were still intensely influenced by British customs and traditions their new life had altered them both physically and mentally. They no longer thought of themselves as English, Irish or Scots, but simply as Australians. Class distinctions were breaking down, and a self-reliant, slightly truculent attitude was beginning to appear.